Q. My winter coat has been a parka since I moved from a warmer climate, but I am wondering if it looks unprofessional. If I were to buy a new coat, what would be the best choice?

A. Generally there is nothing wrong with a parka. It works well in a lot of casual situations. But it may not be dressy enough for your work environment. If you are looking for something more professional, everyone has a different idea of what “a coat” means: what length it is, what color it is, what fabric it is, and how much it would cost.

Length – coats and outer jackets are sometimes interchangeable, and sometimes not. 

A short, bomber jacket may be what you have in mind. I can’t think of any man who is not happy owning a macho leather jacket. But it is definitely a sporty, casual look with limitations; it does not combine well with businesslike clothes. So, if you’re wearing a suit and tie, skip the cropped bomber jacket.

On the other hand, a full-length dress coat (top coat) is the opposite extreme. It has always been perfect for wearing with a suit and tie, or a suit and no tie, or any rather dressy combination appropriate for business wear. But in today’s more casual way of dressing, a full-length dress coat might seem not only a bit too formal and elegant, but a lot so. Your work colleagues might feel you are overdressing. 

Here is where the highly-versatile three-quarter-length dress coat saves the day. Neither too casual, nor too dressy, but just right. It is long enough to cover a suit jacket or a blazer, and yet not so long that it is too formal and inappropriate with the other clothes you might be wearing, from khakis to dress pants.     

Another coat that is equally appropriate for day-to-day wear is a raincoat with a removable lining. 

Color – the ideal color for a top coat is something dark: navy blue, or gray (either a solid color or a muted herringbone tweed), or black. While gray may seem to be your most useful choice, it is not a flattering shade for many men. Black might be too formal, leaving you with navy as your best choice.

The best color for a versatile raincoat is khaki or tan.    

Fabric – because I am a strong fan of natural fibers, I am recommending leather for the short bomber jacket, cotton for the raincoat, and fine quality wool or cashmere (or a blend of wool and cashmere) for the topcoat. These hold up well, do not need to be cleaned often, and continue to give you good wear and look good for decades. 

Cost – While a coat is probably the most expensive item in a man’s wardrobe (except for a watch), it is worth the investment because it has so many uses and continues to serve you well for so long. It’s not unusual to find a fine coat costing several hundred dollars. Even so, I have an alternative to offer you. If you are not averse to spending more time than money, you might explore the wonderful world of “gently used” clothing. I once saw a genuine Burberry raincoat in a thrift shop for $45! You might get lucky. 

No coat should be purchased without a full try-on. When shopping, wear a suit jacket under the coat. If the coat has a back vent, it should hang straight and closed when the coat is buttoned.  

Please send your men’s dress and grooming questions and comments to MALE CALL: Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net