Q. I have one of the new quasi-dress shirts that you have written about where the inside of the collar and cuffs are a different pattern/fabric from the shirt. In this case the shirt is a cotton pink and blue plaid and the other fabric is denim. My question is whether I can wear this with jeans? It seems to go well, but I know there is some rule about not wearing a denim shirt with jeans. 

A. I am glad you asked this because most men do not understand the risks of wearing items that match too closely, and the benefits of those that should coordinate instead. The matchy-matchy rule you reference for jeans and denim shirts is something I do generally agree with. The usual (no doubt, offensive) name for this is a Canadian Tuxedo. That is mostly only acceptable on a ranch. But what you are describing is not a real problem since there is so little denim on the underside of the shirt’s collar and cuffs. 

I like this new style shirt because it’s a bit different, while not being too offbeat. Yours is unusual from most of these; most of the ones I have seen are two different patterns, such as a small plaid or a small check paired with a small flowered print, rather than a plaid with a solid. It sounds nice and is less out-there than two different patterns.  

As I often point out, the neckties and matching pocket squares that are sold together should be avoided. I think of it as looking like you were dressed from a kit. It is not a grown-up look. At this time of year you’ll see that rule abused on NFL pre- and post-game shows, and occasionally on award shows. Sadly, in their effort to present a flashy, stand-out style, sportscasters often think that these matched sets of tie-and-pocket-square or tie-and-braces (suspenders) are a well-dressed adult look. However, I do not agree. Two items that will be worn together should be carefully chosen to be both color and pattern coordinated, but not to be exactly matched. When pairing two different fabrics, a solid-color can go nicely with a pattern, especially when the solid matches one of the colors in the pattern. 

Similarly, wearing a non-suit jacket and pants in the same depth of color (for example, a navy blue blazer and the same shade of navy dress trousers), looks like a mistake, sort of an attempt to pretend to be wearing a suit. With a navy blazer, the trouser choices could be khaki, camel, any shade of gray, or even light blue jeans, since they are clearly not matching dark blues. With a gray jacket, dark gray or black trousers look great. With a camel jacket, any trousers in medium to dark brown will work. Interestingly, an ivory blazer and black dress trousers is an elegant pairing.  

Among other examples of matching colors that work together, and others that do not, are light blue shirts with dark blue trousers which are certainly a “yes,” and medium with medium which are a “no.” Neutral colors are sophisticated, but you might want to brighten them with a bit of bolder color. When deciding which bright colors to use as accents, consider yellows and oranges to perk up a brown combination, and bright reds and perhaps purples to add a pop of color to grays. Again, the answer to your original question is another yes; you can wear your new shirt with jeans and also with other casual blue pants and not-too-formal blue dress trousers. As you suggest, repeating the color in the pattern would work well.

When choosing accessories men should consider this thinking. One of the classic dress rules is that a man’s leather belt and shoes should be in the same color family. (For example, everything from tan to dark chocolate would be considered in the brown family.)  Exotic skins (alligator, snake, ostrich, croc) should be worn in moderation, but not on both belts and shoes (or other items such as briefcases). For some reason, skins are considered attractive and elegant on men’s belts and wallets, but a nouveau-riche look for their shoes, and not in good taste. 

In terms of other accessories such as socks and scarves, there is no issue with repeating colors. Black socks are safe with other black clothing as well as with grays; the same is true of dark blue with other blues. But adding one more eye-catching style, such as a pair of colorful argyle socks,  may just be too much. 

And I would not want to see a pair of green socks and a gold scarf, unless you are at an Arkansas Tech game.

Please send your men’s dress and grooming questions and comments to MALE CALL: Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net