Q. No matter how I dress, my belly hangs over my belt. It is not an enormous beer belly, but I have to be realistic that it isn’t going to disappear and that it doesn’t look great. Do you have any suggestions on ways to disguise it somewhat? 

A. This is certainly a common, if not a universal, question. Except for that rarity — the man who thinks of himself as too tall and too thin — most of us are concerned about being and looking too heavy. In general, the answer to this problem is to choose clothing that focuses on your face and that, when possible, draws attention away from your waistline. 

You can use many illusory tricks to create the look you want.  It can be accomplished by wearing compellingly interesting shirts and ties. Another approach to create an illusion of slimness is using vertical lines when possible, and avoiding horizontal lines, especially ones that draw the eye to your middle. And, the most universally recognized method to make you appear fifteen to twenty pounds lighter is wearing dark colors. Based on these guidelines to slimming your appearance, here are some categories and methods to achieve them: 

Features to look for in clothing that will enhance a vertical look:

• Striped suits with closely-spaced stripes
• Single-breasted suits
• Jackets with slightly padded shoulders and slightly nipped waists.  

Fabrics (weights, colors, patterns) to select to avoid accenting bulging:

• Medium to light weights and avoiding bulky fabrics
• Tops and bottoms of similar tones rather than sharply color contrasting items
• Cool, muted, and dark colors
• Smooth textures
• Simple patterns. Avoid large patterns, such as bold plaids, which visually focus on your center rather than emphasizing the verticals 

Other garments that further this approach:

• Button-down and point collar shirts (avoid the horizontal lines of wide-spread collars)
• Vertically-striped dress and casual shirts
• Long neckties that end exactly at your belt; avoid bow ties
• Trim flat-front trousers, rather than pleated pants, and braces (suspenders) are slimming
• For sportswear, sweaters with vertical lines, such as ribbing and narrow cable stitches. (In general, become a “sweater guy”; sweaters that cover and extend down past the waist, thus camouflaging it)
• Vests accomplish the same skimming-over-the-beltline result as wearing a sweater
• Iron a sharp crease into trousers; it creates a vertical line that visually elongates your legs 

General rules: 

• Do not wear clothes that are too tight and body-hugging. They do not work as a disguise.
• If you are wide in the seat, avoid carrying anything in your back pockets
• Avoid wearing eye-catching and sharply contrasting belts
• Don’t wear clothes that are too short. If you’re going to make a mistake, go a bit too long
• Check your profile in a full-length mirror. If your belly does overhang your belt, this might be a good time to try one of the solutions: a sweater, a vest, a jacket, or adjust your pants a little higher on your waist

An important overword. Even though you can use many tricks to create a slimmer look, you cannot eliminate all of the negatives. But you certainly can learn to emphasize your positives. Knowing the simple secrets outlined above lets you show the world your best features. Nevertheless, it is essential to remember that while you are right to select clothes that are comfortable, that feel good, and make you look your best, first things come first in the business world. If a style is flattering to you, but is not the accepted look of today, you should opt for what is appropriate – for what is currently in good taste. Do what works for you within the framework of  being a well-dressed professional.  

Please send your men’s dress and grooming questions and comments to MALE CALL: Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net